Big Bay-Hollyford Valley 18th-25th Feb 2010

Big Bay - Hollyford Valley trip 18th – 25th February

Sandi Leith (leader), Beris Whelan, Diana Arbon, Ian Fussell, Ken Woolridge, Russ Kiddey, Sally Connolly and Liz Griffiths (scribe) endured the long drive south with lots of rain for the first club trip to the Hollyford in some 15 years.

And then we had to wait an extra 2 hours beyond Te Anau for road clearance after a driver had spun a rental van 180º and over.  However, we woke next day in Davy Gunn’s camp to brilliant sunshine.
 
We had a sensational early morning flight to Big Bay via the Pyke valley for a beach landing at low tide.  Ian glimpsed the 5 Passes area he recently tramped in and we got good views of Lakes Alabaster and Wilmot, as well as the Hollyford valley and spectacular Darren mountain range.

We had all day to explore, with rides on the local possum man’s quad bike, use of his kayak and also his fishing reel to troll for trout, and to enjoy being with ‘Coaster’ his Jack Russell.  Dinner was cooked on a bonfire down at the beach (and, thanks to Ian, we had all but one of our dinners on the embers by river and lake-sides thereafter). And later, that first evening, Russ and Diana went spot-light spear fishing for flounder.  With all the fresh deer tracks and fishing this is paradise.  Be easy to stay here a week.

Big Bay was deserted apart from the hunter, his companion and ‘Coaster’, and us.  It was a fabulous start to our walk.  Next day en route to Martins Bay we saw several Fjordland Crested penguins, probably in moult.  But how special is that !!  All the huts are in really good condition and are superbly sited – and with lots of other fun people to meet. Some joined us for meals outdoors and also for Ken’s ‘getting stoned without whisky’ game.

Travel between the huts was beautiful with lots of interesting stops. A bonus was finding the divinely scented Easter orchids.  Jamestown, established in 1870, was stunning for its stupidity – mail was delivered every fortnight by the postie running from Queenstown till he died, and then, after too many ships came to grief at the river mouth, the settlement endured terrible isolation.  Cattle, driven 250 miles to market, must have lost a lot of condition.  All very crazy but fascinating.

The Demon trail is not hard but for some of us it was slow as it is rocky and slippery.  The 3-wire bridges are simple and fun.  We crossed to McKenzie Hut at the head of Lk McKerrow for morning tea on our way to Lk Alabaster and again saw many deer tracks.  Another place to return to as it is just so stunning.  In fact two nights in each hut on the way would be great as every area is interesting and full of beauty.

Our thanks to Sandi for her time spent initiating and organising this trip – plus our thanks for those beaut muffins at her home as we left.  Great group great place great fun.  Liz Griffiths